Addis Ababa, Ethiopia – Images of Old Damascus and Aleppo adorned the walls of a modest restaurant shoved into Ball Michael, a working-class neighbourhood near Addis Ababa’s international airport.
Arabic and amharic chatter fill the air, roasting giant shawarma skewers and crackling oil around the crispy kebeiba (bulgar and ground meatballs).
In the kitchen, Syrian chef Ahmed Ibrahim and his two assistants prepare for the evening rush. As the sun begins to descent, they carefully fill up hummus in a small bowl, date for guests at the restaurant and stuff takeaway meals for those who stop by asking for a free meal.
In the spirit of the Holy Moon of Muslims in Ramadan, Ibrahim says he is willing to repay him.
“When I first came to Ethiopia in 2020, I didn’t have a penny in my name. I worked in restaurants until I could open my name. I married an Ethiopian woman. Now I am the father of two daughters.” “This country has become my home.”
Over 5.5 million Syrians have fled their homelands since 2011, when war broke out after the government cracked down on a mass uprising. Most Syrians who left called for evacuation in neighboring countries such as Lebanon, Torkiye and Egypt.
Bole Michael became Addis Ababa’s Syrian hub [Samuel Getachew/Al Jazeera]
However, some people ventured even further. In countries like Ethiopia, it is reportedly home to less than 1,500 Syrians.
Al Jazeera approached Ethiopian immigration and citizenship services for official estimates, but the agency refused to respond. According to local media, many Syrians remain unregistered and live in Limbo.
Despite these challenges, Bole Michael has become known as a Syrian neighbour. More Syrian refugees are finding their way there, opening up the familiar rhythm.
That street was largely scattered with valleys and dust, and for a long time was home to Somalia, Sudan and Yemeni refugees. It is part of more than 1 million refugees living in Ethiopia.
In recent years, Syrian businesses have begun to add accents and flavours to their bustling regions.
A restaurant in Ibrahim, named Syria, is one such business. The 34-year-old arrived in Ethiopia five years ago after his three-year stay in Sudan was shortened by political unrest there. According to him, opening a restaurant is a way to recreate slices of houses in exile, and a place where he can serve his hometown dishes to those who appreciate them.
During Ramadan, the mission takes on even greater meaning: to give.
Salem Belhanu, a regular at Bole Michael’s Syrian restaurant, enjoys dinner with Syrian friends [Samuel Getachew/Al Jazeera]
“It would have been great iftar to host free iftar for everyone in need, like those who grew up in Syria,” Ibrahim says.
“But poverty is widespread and we are just small businesses, so that’s going to be difficult here,” he adds.
“Instead, during Ramadan we will not let anyone get away,” he says, explaining that the restaurant offers free meals to those in need during the Holy Month. “It’s about the community and I’m helping as much as I can,” he says.
Almost a quarter of Ethiopia’s 124 million people live under the poverty line.
A taste of generosity from home
As Adan echoes from a nearby mosque, Ibrahim begins to welcome the diners.
Among them is Zeinab Mohammed, the Syrian mother of four who arrived in Ethiopia last year after fleeing Khartoum amid Sudan’s ongoing civil war. Since setting up in Addis Ababa, she has tried to make a living by selling homemade perfumes on the streets.
With her eyes closed temporarily in prayer, she digs out a fragrant chicken shawarmalap with fries.
Approximately 30% of Ethiopians are Muslims. Here, thousands gather at the end of Ramadan at Addis Ababa’s Mesquel Square last year. [Tiksa Negeri/Al Jazeera]
“Life here is not easy,” Zeinab says quietly. “But moments like this remind me of the house. generosity, shared meals – that is what we carried from Syria with us, and we are still living here.”
Sitting next to her is Salem Bellhanu, an Ethiopian friend and familiar face in the neighborhood. Belhanu often joins newcomers at local eateries and sometimes pays for their food as much as he can. He is well known among local children who gather around him and chat in Amharic.
Belhanu says he enjoys meeting Syrians in Ethiopia. “It’s beautiful, especially during Ramadan, because it gives us the opportunity to meet new people and have meaningful conversations,” he says.
Many Syrians say they feel welcome in Ethiopia, but the challenges remain enormous.
At a nearby table, another Syrian refugee, Aisha Abdul, recalls her early years. She made a dangerous bus journey from Sudan before reaching Addis Ababa, hiding from fighters who occasionally attacked the fleet.
Three years ago, she and other worshippers were invited to Iftar, hosted by Ethiopian Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed.
Now she sells aromatic charcoal along with other Syrian refugees.
A mustache-grown air dancer tells passersby that Syrian delicacies are in this small, modest place [Sawra Tafari/Al Jazeera]
She says she makes $5 on average, but on good days she makes more money with the help of her kids.
“Ethiopia is a very welcoming country and the people are wonderful. But it can also feel like a dead end,” she says. “There’s no assistance. It’s difficult to find a job, so many of us end up doing humiliating jobs just to survive.”
Thank you for the new land
In Bethel, a more gentler, more wealthy neighbourhood on Addis Ababa’s western suburbs, the trademark thick mustache and red fez are inflated air dancers that show that another popular Syrian restaurant in Syriana is open.
Inside, trays of crunchy, cream-filled Kunafa and syrup wrenching baklava are on display. Also, as Eid Al Fitr approaches to mark the end of Ramadan, the addition of cookies traditionally baked for opportunities has been added, leading to a long Syrian custom.
Mostly young people, Ethiopian patrons gather at round tables. Many were portrayed by the Tiktok channel of 21-year-old owner Ahmed Abdulqadha.
However, during Ramadan, Syriana is also welcomed to underprivileged visitors.
Ahmed Abdelkadar has made family restaurants famous on social media for the traditional Syrian sweets they make [Courtesy of Alazar Pro Photography]
“We will donate everything we can, including meals throughout Ramadan for those in need,” Abdulqadha tells Al Jazeera, explaining that they will rely on word of mouth to identify people who need help. “We’re becoming good citizens and seeking help,” he adds.
Thousands of Syrian refugees from around the world returned to Japan with the collapse of former President Bashar al-Assad’s government on December 8th, but like Ibrahim, Abdulqadha came to consider Ethiopia as his home.
Abdulqadar, a proficient in Amharic, came to Ethiopia at the age of eight shortly after the war in Syria began. He attended schools in Ethiopia, learned the language and adapted to the adoption country. Thanks to his social media presence, he has become famous and his family is even considering expanding to other parts of Addis Ababa.
Syrians became famous for their contributions to the culinary scene in Egypt, Libyan and Jordan, but those who settled in Ethiopia had to overcome language barriers and unfamiliar local preferences.
Thanking his family for the success, Abdulkader says this month he is offering him the opportunity to reflect and give back.
“Ramadan allows us to connect with our customers on an individual level and provide food to anyone, regardless of our ability to pay,” he says.
This work was released in collaboration with EGAB.
