PARIS – As the loud luxuries of new maximalism dominated the runway this season, modern labels have unveiled a suppressed collection full of stealth wells signifiers.
The denim was dark washed, structured and streamlined throughout the collection presented for the fall, when high street shops offered serious take on dressing.
The continuation of quiet luxury was especially true for the SMCP family brand. Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot have shifted their styles subtly. As the biggest brand of conglomerates, Sandro led the pack.
The flagship brand Sandro is strengthening its relationship with the art world and is holding a presentation at the newly improved Musée Bourdelle. The enormous sculpture served as a stunning backdrop, with a solid collection of rising basics displayed at the forefront.
Keypiece has a camel-colored update from last season’s bestselling scarf coat, as well as plenty of sharp jackets, including trimmed trenches and boxy blazers. The pleated skirts and argyle sweater vests were all in navy, taupe and traditional black neutral shades, perfecting the bourgeois wardrobe. Everything was clean, form fit and streamlined.
The brand also won the key office wear trends of the season with its masculine suits. Sandro makes the game a real player in the “accessible luxury” field with sourcing and production, said CEO Isabel Alluchuuuch. The fall campaign, filmed by Alessandro Furchino Capria, was exhibited in the museum’s gallery in display style.
Appearance from Sandro’s fall 2025 collection.
Sandro’s courtesy
Other SMCP brands and Claudie Pierlot operate independently of their own creative directors, but overall aesthetic changes can also be felt in those labels.
Maje has moved from clubwear to Chicer, to a more classic silhouette made in leather and vinyl. Creative Director Judith Milgrom offered to acquire workwear in what she called “office rebels.” The classic workwear suit with short hemlines, leopard prints, layers and sequins provided a more edgy take for the younger Maje demographic.
Also, sweet Mary Jane’s shoes and box-shaped silhouette had a subtle 60’s influence.
The brand is evolving its selection of evening wear and will target the red carpet with cocktail wear. The new-looking waisted full skirt dress was offered in a velvet style full skirt over pants, as if a gown with purely retro slits topped with a glowing bow and an accordion-played chiffon mini dress with an hourglass silhouette. The puff bubble skirt was a fun touch, and there were some kissmets as the biggest trends heated up.
Appearance from Maje in autumn 2025.
Courtesy
Another SMCP house, Claudie Pierlot, received an improvement to the upcoming collection under the direction of Maria Rosa Fragapane, a new studio creative head who boarded eight years later under the Buzzy Balzac brand in October. She tapped the preppy cords with a shaky contrast collard jacket and pinstriped pleated pants. The hiking boot hooks and lace were a fun twist for the trainers.
A notable style that renews the brand’s maritime roots was the traditional officer’s coat, reinterpreted with a mandarin collar. The strong outerwear is a brand’s touchstone, attracting the faux fur trend with a highly voracious chocolate coat with a fuzzy leopard print collar and cuffs.
As part of the strategic shift, the house continues to be known under the Claudi Pierot’s moniker, but will drop the last name in all future brandings. Claudie Girl emerges as a lighter, more playful version with new directions.
Maison Fox
Maje called the collection a trip from Paris to New York, but the Maison Kitsuné girl was on the Eurostar from Paris to London. The Japanese-inspired brand became “Back To Basics” with a collection designed by the studio team after a few seasons of California surferware.
A return to preppy roots brought back the plaid schoolgirl style skirts and blazers, with plenty of more streamlined college look.
Maison Kitsuné also focuses on materials with a cozy sweater in three-quarters of the Zip and V-neck versions, as seen in cashmere and thick wool knits. For women, the suit was looser and more fulfilling, with pleated pants paired with plaid button-downs, while the man’s appearance was slimmer.
Without the creative head, the brand will continue to focus on collaboration strategies, launching its collection with Autry Sneakers in September and Hunter Boots in October. The latter is expected to help raise awareness about the British fox brand, where it expands its retail presence.
Elsewhere, the fox continues to establish itself as a lifestyle player by opening a hotel and resort in Bali last summer.
Appearance from Maison Fox 2025 Fall Collection.
Courtesy Maison Fox
Longchamp
Cross-channel bonds were also an important theme for Longchamp. Sophie Dela Fontaine, the creative director of the French home, proposed Entertainmentalé and blended Paris and London influences with a fall lineup inspired by her passion for crafts.
One side of the channel was French artist Constant Liant. His blue line artwork decorated workwear jackets, accessories and preage bags.
“We love his work and it’s an opportunity to talk about all these Parisian artisans who give our city a flavour,” said DelaFontaine, who met him through her daughter, Juliet Poupelde.
.
Appearance from the Longchamp collection for fall 2025.
Courtesy Longchamp
While smacking the London look, the Longchamp women had a shirring vest with a padded kimono jacket, a long cashmere dress and a shirring pattern with a cable knit pattern perfect for weekends in the Cotswolds.
Another highlight was my connection with British outerwear specialist Gloverall. The result was a wool version of Paddington’s bear-style duffle coat and Longchamp Roseau tote.
– Contributions from Lily Templeton
