In 1982, Lisa Baanbach’s Preppy Handbook codified the appearance and lifestyle of preparations ranging from Lily Pulitzer to Lacoste to LL Bean, selling over 2.3 million copies.
Many of the book’s outfit secrets have stood the test of time, including Sperry’s top cider, khaki, and Bermuda bags.
But new waves of Prep are also taking over the runway and streets. Designers twist old standards of a new generation who are extremely happy to wear college codes, and country clubs are detached from social signals.
“Today, customers don’t necessarily have to fit into a neat, small category. Jack Carlson, creative director and founder of Twisted Prep label Rowing Blazers, said:
Street style for Paris Fashion Week in Autumn 2024.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
Carlson, a PhD designer in Archaeology, said he has always studied history and has been successful in mixing tradition and profane – the classic sweater of “Tongue Spin-On” and rugby and polo shirts feature classic counterfeiting, details and construction techniques, such as the Princess Deanna-inspired nostalgia women’s cap. The collaboration elevated the idea, including Blazer’s collaboration Harry’s New York Bar, Tie-Dye Grateful Dead Rugbys, and embroidered pants and corduroy baseball caps from 47 sports teams.
“Preppy” was born as a unique form of rebellion on elite college campuses, but the meaning of the word has been changing over the years and is more exaggerated than intended, he said. “Brands like the Rowing Blazers, Noah and Aim Leon Door have helped make them more relevant, more approachable, more profane, and more enjoyable. Ironically, they bring it back to their rebellious roots.”
Tommy Hilfiger, Fall 2024
Nina Westerbert/WWD
Tommy Hilfiger, a stubborn New York designer in business for over 40 years, has been around a significant share of the preppy trend cycle. Today, he said it was “all balance.” For example, a crisp button-down shirt with more relaxed track pants and sneakers and a tailored blazer.
“When we redesigned Prep in 1985, it was disruptive with the introduction of an oversized, relaxed silhouette, which was in stark contrast to the structured, preppy look of the time.” “Each decade has its own take on prep style,” Hilfiger pointed out.
Shanghai street style in spring 2024.
Su Shan Leong/Wwd
Miu Miu has played a major role in the views over the past decade, Nordstrom fashion director Rickie de Sole mentioned the brand’s influence on prep-neighboring tennis score trends, saying that shrunken polo shirts, pleated skirts and cotton board shorts gave a fresh twist to preppy fashion. “Suffering leather carryall bags and weathered boat shoes — usually linked to Cape Cod’s summer wardrobe — have become a must for street style sets,” she said of the bestselling accessories.
Zendaya from Wimbledon 2024.
Getty Images
Dries Van Noten’s shrunken club jacket. Bottega Veneta sweater vest. Mixed plaids at Marni and Louis Vuitton, Polos is also representative of the new Prep Peak Cours seen on the runway, from pure dress renditions from Jonathan Anderson and Gucci’s Shrunken Knit versions.
“When it comes to styling preparation, take clues from Zendaya at Wimbledon. Wear PrepStalwart brand Ralph Lauren with her unstoppable poplin and loose knitted tie,” De Sole said. “Today’s preparations are back to normal and carefree and cool.”
Here is a guide to old and new preparations.
Old Preparation: Lacoste Polo
New Preparation: Shrinked Argyle Prada Polo
Prada Argyle Knit Cotton Polo Shirt.
Courtesy of Prada
Old Preparation: Sperry Top Cedar
New Preparation: Miu Miu Weathered Boat Shoes
Available at Nieman Marcus, Miu Miu boat shoes.
Courtesy of Neiman Marcus.
Old Preparation: Bermuda Tote from Nantucket Tog
New Preparation: Tom Brown’s Bermuda Tote
Thom Browne Pre-Fall 2023
Courtesy of Thom Browne
Old preparation: Shrimp and knot earrings borrowed from a mummy jewelry box
New Preparation: Shrimp and knot earrings from heavenly mayhem
Heaven Mayhem double knot mixed earrings.
Courtesy of Mayhem of Heaven
Old Preparation: LL Bean Boat Tote
New Preparation: Staud Allora Tote
Staud’s Allora Tote bag.
Provided by Staud
Old Preparation: Base Weejun Loafers
New Preparation: Celine Loafers
Celine’s Luco Loafer.
Courtesy of Celine
Old Preparation: Private School Signing
New Preparation: ReTrouvai Signet Ring
ReTrouvai’s grandfather’s fantasy signet swan ring.
Provided by ReTrouvai
Old Prep: Land End Rugby
New Preparation: Rowing Blazer x Grateful Dead Rugby
Rowing Blazers’ Grateful Dead Rugby.
Courtesy of the row blazer
Old preparation: J. Press Khakis
New Preparation: Tibi Vintage Khaki Pants
Tibi’s Bio Tool Triple Pleated Pants Vintage Khaki.
Courtesy of Tibi